Dead Bristlenose

[perko]

hey all
got 2 bristlenose cats yesterday and added them, both accounted for this morning, seemed fine, home this afternoon, and 1 not found, then discovered upside down.

pH is 7-7.5 on test kit, have added a little pH down, anything else i should be doing, or just one of those fish that wasnt going to live?

dont want to lose the other one, at $18 per fish

cheers
perko

[mac_man_luke]

How are your your ammonia/nitrate levels?

What temperature is the water?

[perko]

How are your your ammonia/nitrate levels?

What temperature is the water?[/b]

around 27 degrees, and cant measure ammonia/nitrate

[wombat1100]

you need to test your ammonia and nitrite ASAP, both of these in any level will cause fish stress and death, are there any other fish in the tank or is it a new tank? has it been cycled?
Dazz

[perko]

you need to test your ammonia and nitrite ASAP, both of these in any level will cause fish stress and death, are there any other fish in the tank or is it a new tank? has it been cycled?
Dazz[/b]
new tank, been cycled for 3 weeks, only fish in it is the other bristle

[PeteFromTassie]

Did you use a cycle product? I'd say it was 'new tank syndrome' with no good bacteria in the water... Good luck with the other one!

If I were you I'd take some water to your LFS and get it tested or buy my own master kit! Also, probably wouldn't hurt to use some 'Amtrite down' or 'Cycle' in your tank!!!

Goos luck!
Pete.

[mac_man_luke]

If the tank was empty for 3 weeks and you were not even feeding it then its unlikely to have many bacteria in it yet

[perko]

except that the gravel i put in was already used, and not washed by my mate before he gave it to me, so would have had bacteria in it, that was the plan...

[perko]

and by "new" i mean its my first tank, but again, was used b4 by a mate, but cleaned pretty well so i guess no bacteria in the glass itself.

[DOGGA]

First off all your PH levels are way too high for Bristlenoses...

You should be looking at around 6.6 - 7....

I would highly advise not to use any chemicals that help bring the PH down ... if you need to bring the PH down, then do a water change.....

[wombat1100]

I hate to disagree with you Dogga , but doing water changes when first cycling a tank makes the process go a whole lot longer from what I understand, I would recommend letting the tank cycle completely before adding ANY more fish and if your mate has a healthy tank , perhaps steel some water or some filter wool etc from his filter, BUT ONLY IF ITS A HEALTHY TANK!!
you can also buy chemicals to help cycle your tank, take a sample to your LFSand have them test it. then make a decision on the results you get, Get yourself a master test kit or do as i did and purchase the 5 in 1 test strips and the ammonia test strips, i find them accurate enough and SOOOOO much easier!
Daz

[mac_man_luke]

except that the gravel i put in was already used, and not washed by my mate before he gave it to me, so would have had bacteria in it, that was the plan...[/b]

The bacteria would have died unless you moved and set it up after only a few hours at most

[CichlidFreak]

If you can't test ammonia/nitrite, how did you know the tank was ready to have fish added?

You absolutely must test these levels if you want to have any success with keeping fish. Any new tank should be cycled in (you can use cheapo goldfish/feeders for this) and you should familiarise yourself with the process a new tank goes through so you will know when its ready for "real" fish to go in.

I highly recommend buying a master test kit as your only alternative is to go to your LFS every time you want water tested.

When you say the tank was cycled in for 3 weeks, did you have fish in the tank during these three weeks?

[perko]

my understanding of cycling was that there were no fish in the tank, so if thats the definition, then i cycled the tank...

[mac_man_luke]

cycling is either done with cheap hardy fish or just by feeding the empty tank food

tank with nothing added has no waste breakdown etc so no ammonia = no bacteria forming to convert ammonia

[matt_Frontosa]

First off all your PH levels are way too high for Bristlenoses...

You should be looking at around 6.6 - 7....

I would highly advise not to use any chemicals that help bring the PH down ... if you need to bring the PH down, then do a water change.....[/b]

Ph Levels are fine actually as many Pleco catfishes are very sdtrong and can withstand the high ph levels even if you have the ph on 8.0 they will still survive but the prob with there deaf is likely to be the ammonia nitrate so bring some water to your lfs and get them to test it for you if you don't have the test kit and if its too high then use a chemical call amtrite down which is great removing ammonia as it is bottled bacteria.

[wombat1100]

How did you go Perko?
Did the second bristlenose survive?
Did you get the water tested?
let us know mate.
Dazz

[joz]

Not sure why it is but bristlenos can be a bit fickle sometimes.I myself have had similar probs for no apparent reason.
Sometimes bad luck happens with fish keeping :(

[perko]

well, all was well til this morning

changed 15% water, with the fish in tank, unsure if thats such a good idea now, cos temp dropped to bout 25degrees, but was up to 26 when i left to take water in to LFS for full test, which came back perfect in everything except pH was a bit high, 7.6

got home, and bristlenose is dead,
so no good news

perko

[perko]

also when i was in there i noticed that there are no more bristlenose in their tanks, either they soldout or they had a bad batch of fish

[medwards86]

hi mate i do think u have a bad batch of fish, but just a precaution i would cycle the water for a week again test the water to make sure it is okay then add some fish go for some corys or something to strengthen the quality of the water then wait a week to add any more then add something like bristlenose... the only other advice i can give u is just dont go back to that fish shop.

[GoGuppy]

also when i was in there i noticed that there are no more bristlenose in their tanks, either they soldout or they had a bad batch of fish[/b]

Hi perko

Sorry to read the bad news about yr bristlenose. It's true though sometimes shops do get bad batches of fish, either far too young or inbred. But if you notice this again, i would look for another lfs, it's just not worth it to support shops that do not do the right thing.

One thing I noticed reading through the above posts was that you mentioned that the water temperature dropped after a 15% water change. Do you measure and adjust the replacement water temperature to that of the tank before you add it to the tank? Doing so should result in no temperature change in the tank, thus less stress on the fish. I normally try to mix the hot and cold water supplies to get within about 1 or 1.5 degC from the tank temperature :excl: .

Also, don't forget to add the chlorine remover to the fresh water before adding it to the tank. :wink:

Anyway, better luck next time, let us know how you go.

Cheers

[mac_man_luke]

Hi perko

Sorry to read the bad news about yr bristlenose. It's true though sometimes shops do get bad batches of fish, either far too young or inbred. But if you notice this again, i would look for another lfs, it's just not worth it to support shops that do not do the right thing.

One thing I noticed reading through the above posts was that you mentioned that the water temperature dropped after a 15% water change. Do you measure and adjust the replacement water temperature to that of the tank before you add it to the tank? Doing so should result in no temperature change in the tank, thus less stress on the fish. I normally try to mix the hot and cold water supplies to get within about 1 or 1.5 degC from the tank temperature :excl: .

Also, don't forget to add the chlorine remover to the fresh water before adding it to the tank. :wink:

Anyway, better luck next time, let us know how you go.

Cheers[/b]

I have heard it is bad to use hot water due to the dissolved minerals etc causing harder water

[GoGuppy]

I have heard it is bad to use hot water due to the dissolved minerals etc causing harder water[/b]
Possibly for some types of fish, I think marines and invertabrae or crustaceans may be sensitive in this regard, but I have not experienced this with tropicals. IMO shocking them with cold water is much worse :ohmy: .

Does anybody have comments on minerals from the hot water tap and impacts on fish?

Cheers

[wombat1100]

I also add warm water from the hot and cold water taps, I just use my hand as a guide to guage the temp though. I have heard that copper from the pipes could be a problem but i have never experienced any problems from doing this
Dazz

[medwards86]

Hi perko

Sorry to read the bad news about yr bristlenose. It's true though sometimes shops do get bad batches of fish, either far too young or inbred. But if you notice this again, i would look for another lfs, it's just not worth it to support shops that do not do the right thing.

One thing I noticed reading through the above posts was that you mentioned that the water temperature dropped after a 15% water change. Do you measure and adjust the replacement water temperature to that of the tank before you add it to the tank? Doing so should result in no temperature change in the tank, thus less stress on the fish. I normally try to mix the hot and cold water supplies to get within about 1 or 1.5 degC from the tank temperature :excl: .

Also, don't forget to add the chlorine remover to the fresh water before adding it to the tank. :wink:

Anyway, better luck next time, let us know how you go.

Cheers[/b]

i also just throw cold water in and never have had a problem doing it that way no white spot fish loss due to stress or anything.though in winter i have been doing a bit of warmer water though not all the time.

[Sloory]

I like to add warm water, i think its safer to do this so they aren't too disturbed by the water changes.
Every little bit helps.

[medwards86]

I like to add warm water, i think its safer to do this so they aren't too disturbed by the water changes.
Every little bit helps.[/b]
yeah i agree though some fish are hardier but y risk it. just the smallest thing can make such a big different

[aquariumleasing]

We use water from hot water systems all the time with no problems. Many years ago the old copper water tanks caused some problems (because they were old?) but not nowadays with modern stainless steel tanks. Use warm water when you can.

I often have whaole batches of juvenile bristlenose turn belly-up and I get mine direct from the wholesalers. Dunno why - near perfect water conditions. I complain (nicely) and their policy is a full refund - no questions asked - if reported within 7 days. I think they (the fish) might suffer from some form of species specific disease which we know nothing about. Or maybe stress from transport? Who knows. I avoid bristle noses because I have lost too many.

A very good hardy alternative for cleaning the tank is the GOLDEN sucking catfish. Get the golden species - less aggressive (but we do still get the occassional naughty one).

.....John

[perko]

thanks for all the info everyone,
have added a couple of barbs a mate gave me, been in the tank about 5 days now, and still going strong, so i am leaning towards possibly a bad batch of fish or just bad luck, not so much water issues, as the test came back as no probs, only possibility was coldness,

anywho, all is ok now

cheers
perko

[medwards86]

thanks for all the info everyone,
have added a couple of barbs a mate gave me, been in the tank about 5 days now, and still going strong, so i am leaning towards possibly a bad batch of fish or just bad luck, not so much water issues, as the test came back as no probs, only possibility was coldness,

anywho, all is ok now

cheers
perko[/b]

just to let u kow barbs can be more hardier than most fish i think so just be aware of that

[perko]

just to let u kow barbs can be more hardier than most fish i think so just be aware of that[/b]

will do, il get another water test done at the lfs before buying more fish, if mates offer me fish for free, i will give them a go tho without test, cos no money lost, altho its sad to lose fish

[medwards86]

will do, il get another water test done at the lfs before buying more fish, if mates offer me fish for free, i will give them a go tho without test, cos no money lost, altho its sad to lose fish[/b]
and also still on the barbs..just becareful what fish u put with them unless u want them to become food. Especially tetras and things like that. though having said that i had one in my misses tank and it died as a result to getting stressed and fins eaten off by a reticulate loach..or paki loach which ever u prefer.
catch ya

[jonmobrien]

i also just throw cold water in and never have had a problem doing it that way no white spot fish loss due to stress or anything.though in winter i have been doing a bit of warmer water though not all the time.[/b]


Oops, I stuffed up my filter and took a week to get it fixed. I was told I should completely change the water due to ammonia build-up, etc.
I totally forgot to heat the water, I did an 80% change dumping in cold water (with a few drops of ager). All of my fish, including 20 or more bristle nose catfish - adults, juveniles and babies - all survived. The only casualties which were to be expected were the babies living in the filter since the water in the filter stagnated with valves closed for a week. (PS. When I bought new filter parts I also put a Breeder Sponge filter on it so no more babies in the filter - but it was fun watching them grow and then swim up and down the pipe when they got too big to fit in the filter base anymore).

These are really hardy catfish! Temperature has vaired from 15 degrees to 30 degrees quickly, ammonium levels have been high (I assume), the feeder stopped working for a week. And they're all from one set of parents. We only bought the 2 initial random catfish, I am assuming we got a male and female - we had no thoughts of breeding.

We've been giving them away to family as they've grown up, but my only thought is of continuing, are there any issues of in-breeding? Now all stock of cat-fish amongst all my family is from my initial pair. Should I exchange some with another breeder to mix up the gene pool?

Cheers,
Jono.

[jonmobrien]

Oh yeah, I also have no idea what temperature or pH the catfish and others like. The mercury thermometer that came with the tank has a red bar between 20 and 30 degrees, so I just figured to try and keep the temperature in that range - mostly around 22-26 degrees. As indicated, with big drops during water change, and during summer it sometimes goes over 30 degrees (we sometimes drop in ice blocks to broing it back, but haven't seen any problems with the fish at that time).

No idea what the pH level is or should be.

I only know about the ammonia issue and about bacteria growth because the shop assistant was shocked when I bought the filter part a week after it stopped working, and he said "for the same reason you don't wash the filter out with fresh tap water" and I went "er... you don't?" (I always used to)...

[GoGuppy]

I totally forgot to heat the water, I did an 80% change dumping in cold water (with a few drops of ager). All of my fish, including 20 or more bristle nose catfish - adults, juveniles and babies - all survived. The only casualties which were to be expected were the babies living in the filter since the water in the filter stagnated with valves closed for a week.

Oh yeah, I also have no idea what temperature or pH the catfish and others like. The mercury thermometer that came with the tank has a red bar between 20 and 30 degrees, so I just figured to try and keep the temperature in that range - mostly around 22-26 degrees. As indicated, with big drops during water change, and during summer it sometimes goes over 30 degrees (we sometimes drop in ice blocks to broing it back, but haven't seen any problems with the fish at that time).

No idea what the pH level is or should be.

I only know about the ammonia issue and about bacteria growth because the shop assistant was shocked when I bought the filter part a week after it stopped working, and he said "for the same reason you don't wash the filter out with fresh tap water" and I went "er... you don't?" (I always used to)...[/b]

At times, we have all forgotten to properly warm up the water, add the chlorine remover, open the filter valves after a clean, or done some else that in theory should shock or kill the fish, but gotten away with it, with no or little damage to the fish.

This does not mean of course that we should treat our fish like this routinely, and hopefully we learn from our mistakes without the loss of a favourite/expensive fish. :biggrin:

Cheers

[wombat1100]

i think you are right there GG , we all make mistakes, and like you say sometimes we get away with them.
Nothing helps more than research and knowledge.
Dazz

[Riles]

I've spent the better part of 3 hours reading threads, this just goes to show even old thread reading worthwhile and also how bloody stupid I am :eek:

I've tried WAY to hard, test this, change that, add this, add that..... Today I did a 50% water change today (due to high ammonia levels), the whole time freaking out about the temp drop, do you think the thought entered this old head to add warm water *faints*

What a dumb dumb head!!!!!

Cheers
Riles

[missfish]

when I do a water change, I turn both the cold and hot taps on and let them run for a cupple of minutes to flush the pipes.

[Woodsy]

No no nooooo, you should never use water from the hot water tap - it contains a lot of metal ions such as copper, which can be bad news for your fish.

[missfish]

wouldn't the cold water tap have the same problem then? its just that i've always done it, and never had a problem.

[Woodsy]

Ever seen inside a gas hot water service? There's usually some degree of sludge and sediment in the bottom, and some of that can be attributed to chelated minerals such as copper. If it works for you, that's cool, but it's not the type of thing I would be telling others to do. I've experienced many disasters over the years that can be pinned down to the use of hot water from the tap.
If you want to warm your water up first, use a kettle to boil some water and mix that with some cold water. Alternatively, drip feed the water in so that the temperature change is only a slight drop overall.

[missfish]

O kay you,ve convinced me. I'll boil the water I use now.:o But can I just ask, what we the disasters you experienced? what happened to the fish?

[Woodsy]

Copper is used in many medications to treat parasites such as Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (white spot), and is a heavy metal. Just like in humans, heavy metals can cause a vast range of detrimental effects to fish, from reproduction inhibition to cancer. This article: http://www.jstor.org/pss/75993 details just some of the effects of toxic heavy metals including copper. "Skin fish" such as clown loaches (Chromobotia macracanthus) and ghost knives (Sternarchus sp.) are particularly vulnerable to heavy metal poisoning, and common medications will in fact recommend a lighter dose for these types of fish. Copper can alter the effects of other medications if still present in a tank in higher than normal concentrations.
For example, the product Protozin (Waterlife) is likely to contain copper, and as such, it's sister product Sterazin (Waterlife) cannot be used at the same time or shortly afterwards.
I hope that answers a few questions :)

[austwave]

Its a sad tale you tell of your Bristlenose, I lost a couple when i first started keeping them also for no obvious reason as the tank was already settled with other fish.
Generally I have found the breed to be pretty hardy, with pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.8 and temps ranging from 25 in winter to 30 in summer( no chiller on tank)
Haven't lost one in 18 months or more, since I lost some babies, bred 3 times, have seperated current batch of babies to a smaller tank and appear to be going OK 3 weeks on.
As for water changes and using hot water from the tap have always done so with no ill affect I am aware of .

Regards
Craig
Austwave

[billy3000]

First off all your PH levels are way too high for Bristlenoses...

You should be looking at around 6.6 - 7....

I would highly advise not to use any chemicals that help bring the PH down ... if you need to bring the PH down, then do a water change.....


Hey.. just wondering if you could expand on the "i would not use chemicals to bring the PH down" bit please?

cheers

Bill

[cichlidboy]

ph of 7.7 would definitely not cause a bristlenose to die.
one of the hardiest fish I know as far as catfish are concerned.
I've seen people keep their bristlenose in water as high as 8.5!
(and still live to grow big and healthy)
Since you have not tested for ammonia and nitrate, I'd have to say that's my main concern.
There could have been a late ammonia or nitrate spike.
Get your water tested.

[morgasms]

all these answers are true but also cliche, bristlenose will live and breed in water as low as 17-18 degrees well mine do....also im thinking you need to have rotting vegetation or similar (poop etc) for ammonium build up but dont quote me.. i have noticed any lack of oxygen will result in your fish erm "diving" to the surface for air....and also my bristlenose are of the normal south american kind lol they come from dirty creeks etc that vary in condition from dry and wet seasons in south america and despite the filthy conditions of these creeks , not just bn but many other so called high care fish do too live and breed happily and have done so since whoever whatever "placed" them in those creeks....so basicaly despite popular beliefs, cycled water , good bacteria, ph being 6.3 or 6.6 whatever to 7etc etc all probably beneficial but definately not essential and again well not to my fish...im sure the biggest reason bristlenose die is starvation which also doesnt seem relevant here on what little info given, unless maybe your just placing one food source and the other bn was more dominate and didnt allow the second to feed on it (this is indicated by the dominate fish actually appearing to "sleep" on the food..i.e cucumber slice), but that would still leave the rest of the tank and algae to feed of if theres a good light source for hours aday, another problem that can occur is problems from high protein foods..i.e. regular fish foods but again I have been broke enuff not to have had any other food source to feed them for periods of time but never 3 weeks and they didnt die...but i must say I have bought starving juvies before that never made it..they just seemed to not learn to eat basically well that what it looked like..and i had treated for all/everything i could.. so outta 6 orange spots i got 3 to live but these fish had all the signs of starvation ...abnormally thin bellies..but not sure this is really relevant either..sometimes fungii isnt noticeable on certain fish etc it may just look like dull spots/patches etc..also if bn are stressed by anything they show it in colouration ..they lighten and become patchy etc even perfect example starlights l183 can turn almost white where theyre normally black etc, so this is a good sign to look for....good luck.

did the other bn live?? did you sort your problem? if so what was it?

[morgasms]

Hey.. just wondering if you could expand on the "i would not use chemicals to bring the PH down" bit please?

cheers

Bill

look up black water and ways to make it..i.e. using chemicals that man has purified or lol using chemicals that are available from natural sources i.e. peat mosses, real fresh "green" wood peices etc etc

ANNNND FFS too funny man made pure chems or unclean natural ones hahahaha all chemicals in the end LOL otherwise it wouldnt work but ahhh well again LOL

[darius]

if the bristlenose had not been in the tank for long, and no other food or fish had been in the tank, i would think that 2 bn's would take a while before they built up a too high nitrite, nitrate and ammonia spike.

one thing overlooked is the potential that they had worms or some other internal problem. which can make them drop for no apparent reason. some problems might be evident from stringy, white faeces, and bloating.

as for copper, water agers get rid of copper and heavy metals. if i use hot water, i usually add extra just to make sure. i don't see cold water being such a big issue unless the species is sensitive to the changes. in my experience, definitley not bristlenose. if using cold. try not too change overly large % volumes with cold. make more frequent changes. slow the rate at which the cold water is added and it wont impact as hard. anyway, for some fish, adding cold can help act as a trigger to breed.

cheers

[morgasms]

thats a really good point..parasites like worms etc. but these meds can be really harmful to plecos loaches etc ..READ THE LABELS not all have THE SAME ingredients ..

as for cold water...depending how far from the mountains or from the storms themselves i.e. miles downstream, the water travelling across the ground..will effect on what the rain water temperature a little , so if the fish are even miles downstream the water temps will rise only so many degrees if any by the time it reaches where the fish live ,larger lake fish are still affected by the temp change but maybe to a lesser degree..if these fish actually habitat in deeper areas the water temp will be almost constant etc and not affected as much.. in just how its produced etc, rain water is really really cold especially in comparison to the air and water temps of creeks lakes, the sea haha alot of big storms actually produce hail the size of golf balls and bigger in the higher latitudes..when a torrential down pour is hail there can be 3-4 foot of ice hahaha very cold water all running down hill into the creeks gullies waterholes lakes dams rivers the sea..(the best places on earth are where the moutains reach the sea)...common knowledge taken from my experience growing up in north QLD so i think relevant as its on the planet at the same area of longitudes , latitudes whichever goes around east to west lol..logically this idea regarding water temps (unless fully extreme)can only affect most fish in a positive way, it would similate the "wet season: breeding time lol even alot of saltwater species come alive now as the rain freshens the brackish water too much and they need to move out into the bays , prawns do this, all other fish know this and they breed. The wet season brings nearly all life in the tropics alive into breeding because theres so much "food" around..but im saying this from a point of logic not knowledge on fish breeds and books and the like about them.

[morgasms]

annd sorry if i go on too much, im not wanting to be some kind of idiot smartass..im just sharing my logic..im not even sure if any of its relevant..I JUST THINK SO.

[Mick John]

Just in reference to Darius's comment on white stringy faeces. If there is a small amount of white "solid" faeces throughout the dark faeces does this ring alarm bells? Something I've noticed in a couple of my tanks. However the fish all seem very happy and healthy. All my Catfish are Omnivorous by the way so their diet is suited. Cheers.

[thenicksta16]

Hi, i had the same problem but i lost about $1000 worth of bristlenose, turned out it was the nitrite killing them.. Keep doing a 40-50% water change every couple of days until its right. Hope that helps.

[Mick John]

G'day nick. Thanks for the advise I really appreciate it. However I'm very meticulous with the water parameters/levels etc. and my latest test results have shown this: Ammonia- 0
Nitrites- 0
Nitrates- 0-3 mg/l.

So I guess that's not the issue. I feed alot of Brine and also Veg. foods and am not sure if this is causing this? It's the best guess I can come up with as all the fish are in extremely good health ( To the naked eye ) and do not show any signs of Parasite/ bacterial infection. Any other idea's would be appreciated guy's. Thanks.

[darius]

hi,

i'm no expert when it comes to fish faeces. but at a guess, i would think that continual stringy white faeces would mean something is going on more than just a little. change in diet, food didn't agree with them etc could be a cause if its not very often. happens to us!

when using med's, check if its got trichlorfon. i've used it before (no warning on label) and it wiped 90% of every bristlenose i had. i think cory's are ok. the 20cm gibby i had at the time didn't seem affected, but maybe his body size helped. the ones that were still alive after i removed them from the tanks would shake and twitch, and out of them half still died. it killed around 80 bn's from 5-15cm. a bit of research would be in order to see if half doses etc are ok.

cheers

[Mick John]

Thanks Darius. Funny thing is is that their faeces are all in tact it's just that some of them are pale. They aren't stringy at all. Which makes me think that it's a result of their diet. But that's not really out of the ordinary either. But most of it is still dark. I'm waiting for my Mate who might know something to come back from holidays in a week. Until then I'll keep searching for info. just in case. Thanks for the Med. advise too. Appreciate it. Cheers Mate.

[Mick John]

I'm currently conducting maintenance and will trial and error their food to see if there is something in particular setting this off. Further to the Parameters from Post above the PH is good and the water is extremely soft so all is good in this department. Filtration must be working also so this possible bacterial issue is a mystery to me. Water changes etc. tonight and food monitoring is all I can do at the moment. Hope I'm stressing over nothing!

[titan84]

hi all , i have six x four foot tanks full of bristlenose that i am breading ( last count i had 248 bristles) and 3 x 900 ltre six footers that i am using as grow out tanks. As per ph levels and the rest in most cases it is not going to kill a fish. ammonia/nitrate levels at the extremes can kill them but i think maybe u brought bum fish or you did something wrong in the inital 2 day breaking in period of the fish.
good luck
titan

[Mick John]

Sometimes things aren't quite that simple unfortunately. As far as the Nitrogenous wastes go, any Ammonia and Nitrites are harmful. The good news is no sign of the white faeces since I've stopped feeding certain foods. My fish are all in perfect condition apart from a few clear faeces that I noticed and wanted to get to the reason behind this. At this stage it's pointing towards a particular food(s). Cheers.