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GoGuppy
19th July 2008, 08:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick John http://www.thefishtank.com.au/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.thefishtank.com.au/forums/showthread.php?p=4601#post4601)
..... Me I swear by the UV lighting. Small cost and less headaches.

G'day Mick

I thought I better start a new post as I didn't want to highjack the earlier post where you mentioned UV.

I've been thinking about UV, but mainly for algae control in a planted tank. Have you had any experience in this use of UV?

Cheers

Mick John
19th July 2008, 11:52 PM
G'day GoGuppy. Thanks for the welcome Mate. I believe that the UV's are worth their weight in gold. Whether it be to control algae growth or Parasites or bacteria. UV Lights enable the Aquarist to concentrate on building the Bio foundations of his/her tank without having the worry about murdering all that is good by using Medications for things such as Ich. Yes the UV kills the good bacteria too as it passes the UV lighting but it's what's in the tank and the Sump/Filter that matters as it's here that the poisons are broken down right. The UV rays alter the cellular structure or DNA if you like, of the organism/algae/bacteria, hence killing it. They are popular with Pond owners who are up against the strong light of the Sun and stubborn algae. Although Nitrates and additional nutrients used need to be still controlled to assist. I have a few Cats and whiptails etc. so I actually try and promote algae growth to assist in their diet. Not sure what your set up is like but fast growing plants assimilate excess food. Just means more pruning. Esp. if your running CO2. I am running a 36Watt UV Pondmaster primarily for parasites and bacteria and is stationed as the last Unit the water runs through before returning home. http://www.thefishtank.com.au/forums/images/icons/icon11.gif My last tank was half the size (285Lt) and I was running an 11Watt UV. This did an excellent job and only had to replace the Bulb after one and a half years! Pushing it though. Probably should change minimum every year. Depending on the strength of the light. The slower the water coarses through the Canister the better as it gives greater exposure time of any Parasites or suspended algae particles. Again, depending on the light strength I guess.There's several advantages to UV usage and personally I believe it equals greater success. Anyway I've rambled on haven't I!!. I'll shut up now.

GoGuppy
20th July 2008, 09:47 AM
G'day Mick

Hey thanks for your detailed response; it is really useful and confirms much of what I was thinking. I've been pretty lucky over the past few years and have had very little if any ich and such deseases in the tank (knock on wood...), but since setting up my current tank late last year I have been battling algae a bit. I have a 260 ltr tropical fresh water tank with rainbows, blue eyes, a coulple of corys and a stray whiptail. It is planted with CO2 injection, 150W MH lighting, which is on for about 6 hrs per day. I initially tried keeping the light on for 10 to 12 hrs a day, as for normal lighting, but found that the algae would just take over. Then after reading the Dupla recommendations on MH lighting in their manual, I reduced the period to 6 hrs and this has helped a fair bit.:)

I monitor the usual water conditions regulary, as well as Iron, phosphate and nitrate. Boy, you're not wrong about plants gobling up nutrients, as it surprisingly hard to keep up the nutrients to satisfy the plants, but the tricky bit I found is keeping the nitrate to phospate ratio roughly right.

One question mate, do you keep the UV running 27/7, or do you switch the UV off accasionly?

Cheers

Mick John
20th July 2008, 09:15 PM
G'day mate, yeah 24/7. No need to worry about timers or anything. By the way nice photo's. Is that a Royal Whiptail/Twig I see? They are a nice fish. I had 2 Males but gave one back to my mate and am waiting to come across a Female now. Beautiful Railbows too.

GoGuppy
21st July 2008, 07:54 AM
G'day Mick

Thanks for that, nice and easy.:D.

Yes, that is a royal whiptail and it's grown heaps since my south american set up days, before I went native.:)

Cheers

joz
21st July 2008, 12:45 PM
Like mick I've always run a UV in my tank mainly to keep parasites under control but also incase you continuosly have green water.
But I have mine connected to my lighting timers now so that they are only on to control the geen water.
Must see if I can get new tubes now...

Had one in our previous home on a rather large fish pond aswell,did wonders with that too!

Just remember it will only control free floating algea and not the surface stuff.

GoGuppy
24th July 2008, 07:59 AM
Just remember it will only control free floating algea and not the surface stuff.

G'day joz
Thanks for that. I am aware of this, but every litle bit helps, I guess, against algae...:D..
Cheers

GoGuppy
9th August 2008, 05:45 PM
G'day all

I went out and bought an UV steriliser at the LFS last weekend and installed it today. It's an 11W Pondmaster so should work well.

Luckily I've got all electrics in a separate section in the cabinet/stand for the aquarium, as its hose connections leaked badly when I first hooked it up using garden irrigation clips and these were not tight enough. :o

I went to buy a couple of proper screwed hose clamps and this fixed the problem. Then I let the water circulate for a while just to be sure and to purge the air from it as well.

It's been on now for a couple of hours and I'll just keep it running now until the next filter clean, probably about in six months time. :D

Cheers

Mick John
10th August 2008, 07:46 AM
G'day GG. It should make things a little easier for you mate. They really are worth their money. For best results have the water flow running through as slow as possible. At the moment it probably doesn't matter so much but as it starts to age the strength of the light will weaken. I used the smallest hose connections that was supplied with the light. If it's set up on your main filter circulation and it's got a fast water flow and restricting the flow isn't possible for Biological reasons maybe then use a valve and run a separate hose away from the main hosing to minimize water restriction. Or introducing a separate small pump of it's own. Hope it goes well for you. Cheers.http://www.thefishtank.com.au/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif